Brewing up at 3600m. We went to the Val di Mello for some sport climbing. The last abseil before the summit.....before the ropes got stuck, so had to prussik back up the full 50m. Until pitch 2 when we realised there was serious damage to one of the ropes (ewounder! Looks like tue/wed will be dry and maybe warm enough to start melting snow off the route.... optimistic.Byron has a treat for you today with a little video:Lift didnt start up until about 9.30 so we dropped gear off, had a brew and made for the Cosmiques Arete to help Byron get some acclimatising - besides, its always a great route. Sit bolt upright to witness a shower of sparks sliding down the glacier. Stayed clipped on all night. "Errr, we have to go across that in the morning" says Guy. For some Pizza and Vino we are heading to the Val di Mello (I) now before heading backa round to the Bregaglia for more Badile action.Nice route. Next day there was snow to about 2500m. Catyoucha, 200 m, 6a+ max, 6a obl - les jumeaux du Brévent-juin 2007. We need some 25 degreesish weather to clear that before we spin the van back around to come have another go.Today we headed for Chamonix, at least here we can meet friends, drink beer and get out for gaps in the weather here and there!Weather.....average - Needless to say we didnt get very far on it (taking too long to do all 33 pitches!). Abseil approach was a shame but meant the rotue was quiet. We have decided to stick it out here.Went to Le Fayet crag this morning then it cleared up a bit and went to Les dalles des aveyron for the afternoon. Completed that in a couple of hours, realised we forgotten coffee money, so retreated back to the hut for another brew!Fresh snowfall (maybe 10-15cm in places), but otherwise people were out getting some routes done (Chere Couloir, Mt Blanc du Tacul, Traverse of Lachenal etc etc) not much else.The long awaited 'crowds go away and weather comes good' has not happened. Maman et ses jumeaux 8,364 views 13:33 Miracle Healing Prayer in Jesus Name, Healing of Physical Ailment, Mental, Binding Virus epidemics - Duration: 11:48:12. Byron left me after an hour or so of crouching. Great mixed step (around guidebook pitch 4) to keep things entertaining.Descended down the NW Slope and onto the normal Mt Blanc du Tacul route, good snow cover on this slope Making the winter season REALLY exciting and seem quite close!All in all, fantastic route - short enough to knock it off in a morning and tricky enough (if you just follow your nose not the guidebook) to make it more adventurous!Getting onto the ramping slope before the mixed stepCame down this afternoon as the weather looks ok to go get on some rock.September Badile Cassin Project: Still keeping eyes open on the Vicosoprano Meteosuisse forecast for another drive over to the Bregaglia.

Not to worry, next morning Guy hands me a book with our next possible objective - 1200metres of TD climbing. ... from previous escapade) so had to bail! A few rocks roll down the glacier but they don't matter as it will all freeze overnight holding them in place.9:00: The usual pasta dinner to the sounds of some more rockfall doesn't deter our spirits before an early bed and hard day's climbing the next day.9:37: Lots more rockfall; getting much more frequent now.9:39: BOOM! After a good kip in the hut, we set out at 7.30am with Byron Buck (Short for Buckminster, long for B) from the hut. I think this is better re-visited in July in a long day hit. Yeah right, I say... More grim weather around (have tried every angle.... morocco, fontainbleau, verdon) all considered.

our objective was the Cassin Route on the Badile. "Great!" Nice slab bolt clipping, very chilled.Decided to head up to the midi tomorrow for a look over the next 3 days just getting an idea whats happening high up.Pure Outdoor: Independent Outdoor Activity Providers Bugger, road trip continues.Back in Bondo...ok so snow has come down to 2500m. Crowds have gone, rain has come. Chilled out in the local Cafe which was a cool place called Bar Monica (got hold of the local guidebooks etc) but then it rained...........So we drove to the Bregagli. Arriving at the Bivvy just as the sun went down. Route: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7232718th September: Contamine Grisolle (Left Edge) Triangle du TaculAn easy line but one I have fancied the look of for a while. So we set out without a guidebook and did some roadside cragging. Actually climbd the first pitch of a route to the right 6A before finding it was the wrong route so abseiled to the start of Catyoucha.Finished before the final corner as we had to hit the road!Trading the mother in for Byron today so we will see what that brings!

Turns out to be a superb homogenous route at about 6A. We wasted quite a lot of time route-finding on the East ridge.Headed to Le Buet and up the Berard valley today for a late start (with bad weather due) on L'ete Indien.

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